I'm a huge fan of Nordic crime novels, many of them Swedish: Henning Mankell, Camilla Lackberg, Liza Marklund, Helene Tursten, Tove Alsterdal, M.T. Edvardsson, Åsa Larsson - and, of course, Stieg Larsson. So at the top of my must-see/must-do list on my recent trip to Sweden was the Stieg Larsson Millennium tour, a 2-hour guided walking tour in the Södermalm neighbourhood of Stockholm.

Although the tour itself was not until 6PM, I decided to make a day of exploring the Södermalm/SOFO part of town. I took the metro to Slussen station and then had a leisurely walk along Götgatan and Folkungagatan, grabbing a coffee along the way and stopping in at various little shops that caught my eye. I looked for (and found) the English Bookshop on Södermannagatan ... and of course that led me down a whole new rabbit hole. I wanted to buy everything but managed to limit myself to books that were of a relatively compact size and that I didn't think would be that quick or easy to obtain at home. Surprisingly, perhaps, most of them were not in the mystery or crime fiction genre; they were more in the line of memoirs and books by prominent Swedish writers like August Strindberg, Astrid Lindgren and Karin Boye. I think I'll have to devote a separate entry to discussing the books I got there. Anyway, when I was paying for it all, they gave me a slew of their bookmarks and I learned that they also had a shop in Göteborg, a city that was also on my itinerary. Yet another must-visit shop for my list! You can find out more about English Bookshop locations in Sweden at: www.bookshop.se

Then it was off to the Stockholm City Museum (Stadsmuseet), where I enjoyed an outdoor lunch followed by a pleasant afternoon exploring the museum and strolling along the waterfront.

After all that walking and still with time to kill before 6PM and another two hours' worth of walking (much of it uphill over cobbled streets and lanes), I decided I'd better start orienting myself and locate the place where the tour was to start. Have I mentioned before that I have a terrible sense of direction and can easily get myself turned around and heading in completely the wrong direction? Anyway, I followed my map and found 1 Bellmansgatan (the site of Mikael Blomkvist's apartment) quite easily. And in that area were quite a number of pubs and cafés with outdoor patios. So I went to one that appealed to me, just a few doors away from no. 1 Bellmansgatan and ordered myself a glass of local beer so I could people-watch and browse through some of my purchases.

By around 5:50PM, I saw a woman standing next to a wall just by no.1, holding a clipboard and a stack of leaflets and other papers. It was indeed Eva, my tour guide. We chatted a bit about our favourite books and authors as we waited but by about 6:10, it was apparent that no one else was going to show up. So that was a surprise but a very pleasant one, as I had the luxury of my own private tour! She had lots of stories to tell about Stieg Larsson, his life and upbringing and family, his editorial work and political activism and efforts to understand the motivations behind some of the extreme right-wing factions that were gaining an alarming foothold in Sweden at the time. And that of course made for some serious threats to his life and his security.

She talked about Pippi Longstocking, the main inspiration behind Lisbeth Salander. I read the Pippi books as a child myself, as did my daughter and now my grandchildren. I reread them as an adult, in addition to several other Astrid Lindgren books for kids like the Kalle Blomkvist series (in the second-hand American editions I ordered through Abebooks, he was called Bill Bergson) and Mio, My Son. While in Sweden, I bought a couple more of the Astrid Lindgren books in English translation: Master Detective (published in the U.K. and in which Kalle Blomkvist was actually called that) and Karlsson on the Roof. Interestingly enough, my edition of Karlsson was translated by Sarah Death, who also translated Karin Smirnoff's The Girl in the Eagle's Talons, the latest book in the Millennium series.

There was ample time for the questions I had and Eva even took me to some spots that weren't part of the official tour. For example, the final stop before we parted at the metro station was rather a sad one: the grave of Michael Nyqvist, the actor who played Mikael Blomqvist in the movies, and who died in 2015.

As an aside, I had pretty much given up on reading the Millennium series after the first David Lagercrantz book, which I found somewhat disappointing. I was curious, however, about the new one by Karin Smirnoff and Eva said she thought that I would probably still enjoy it and be able to follow the characters and action, even without having read the rest of the Lagercrantz books. So I'll probably get a copy through one of my favourite independent bookstores and read it in the next few months.
Just back from my Swedish adventure, I thought I'd launch a new series of entries dealing with travel in this day and age. It seems fitting to launch it today, September 11, as we all know that that date in 2001 ushered in a whole new set of procedures and protocols for travellers. And the 2020s mark the beginning of yet another age of new procedures and protocols related to the COVID-19 pandemic.

So today, hotels. I've learned a few things recently about what it means these days to be a hotel guest.


1. THE KEY IS KEY

Time was, when you booked into a hotel, you would get an actual physical key. That was the case even early in this century, particularly in the hotels I frequented in the U.K. In fact, there was one time in a very nice character-filled hotel in Edinburgh, when I returned to my all-made-up room to find a whole raft of keys on my coffee table. Goodness knows what they were all for, but the room cleaners had obviously left them there by mistake and I duly returned them to reception the next time I went downstairs. But there was certainly some good fodder for a story there!

Anyway, when they gave out physical old-fashioned style keys, they often wanted you to leave your key at reception if you were leaving the hotel even briefly. I suppose this had some advantages for both hotel management and guests. It meant that if the room was unoccupied, the main desk could take messages for you while you were out. It also meant that hotel staff would have a good idea of when to make up the room.

Nowadays we usually get a little plastic key card (the size of a bank card or credit card) that can be programmed (and later de-programmed) for the assigned room and guest(s) and number of nights booked. It's pretty efficient - when it works the way it's supposed to.

I've had that style of key which has suddenly stopped working mid-stay, which can be frustrating if you're trying to juggle luggage, parcels or whatever. During my latest trip, I did have that experience in Malmo at the very start of my stay. I was given a key-card at registration and when I got up to my room and tried it on my door, the little light flashed red but didn't go green and release the latch like it's supposed to. So down I went again with my luggage so they could re-do their magic with my key-card . And that time it worked.

But even when the key-card opens the door like it's supposed to, you're not quite home-free! Which brings me to the next thing I've learned:


2. LET THERE BE LIGHT!

I discovered this little hitch in July 2022, settling into the Mayson Hotel in Dublin. My key card opened the door like it was supposed to. I flicked the light-switch just inside the hotel room. Nothing. Then I went into the bathroom and flicked the light switch in there. Still nothing. I drew back the curtains as far as I could to get a maximum of natural light in the room and then tried as many other switches as I could find. Still no joy. I left my suitcase in the room and trundled back down to reception. A woman there took pity on me and accompanied me back up to my room. Turned out that I had to leave the key-card just inside the door whenever I was in the room, in order for any of the electricity to function.

I can see how that would be an ecologically sound measure. But if you're a woman alone, going into a dark hotel room from a dimly-lit corridor and your night vision is not the greatest, it doesn't make for the most disability-friendly accessibility experience. The woman who had escorted me up there saw the problem and gave me a spare key-card that I could keep there all the time (even when I wasn't in the room) so I wouldn't have to grope my way into the unknown. She said it wouldn't work to open any doors in the hotel (I didn't try) but would serve its purpose in terms of keeping the lights on. Now that was one enlightened hotel employee!

Even once I had that spare card, I noticed that lighting in that hotel room was not great if you wanted to read in bed, for example. So while in Dublin, I invested in a little battery-powered book-light, which has proved quite the godsend ever since.

In Sweden recently, my hotel room in Stockholm worked the same way but with my trusty battery book-light in my purse at all times, I was able to confidently navigate my way around, both during the day and in the evenings.


3. DO YOU WANT YOUR HOTEL ROOM CLEAN OR DIRTY?

I think perhaps the desired answer is "dirty". Well, not really.

It's been a thing with many North American hotels for a while now. If you're staying more than one night, they give you the option of not having your room serviced again until after you've checked out. In return for that, they offer you some paltry reward like maybe a free drink at their already overpriced bar. And they paint it as doing something wonderfully great for the planet so you can feel virtuous claiming your miserly discount.

That policy annoys me and I always nix it. I see it as taking jobs away from chambermaids who are already low-wage employees (at least in most North American hotels). I also see it as a tacit admission that hotel management doesn't value its staff, seeing the worth of their work as, well, small beer.

To be clear, I don't see the need to change my sheets every night of my stay. But I do like to have my bed made up, my wastebaskets emptied, the soggy or grotty towels replaced as needed, the coffee and tea-making supplies replenished. To me, that's just a normal part of the hotel-room experience in a 4-star hotel.

Anyway, in Sweden they didn't try to bribe me with a free drink. They simply asked if I wanted a "cleaning" done on subsequent days of my stay. No extra charge, but I did have to specify that I wanted it done, once I had ascertained that "cleaning" to them meant any (or maybe all) aspects of servicing my room.


4. BREAKFAST ON THE HOUSE!

I arranged my Sweden jaunt through Nordic Visitor. NV sent me vouchers for hotel accommodations in Stockholm, Malmo and Gothenburg, as well as train tickets between those places. I could pick any start date or end date I wanted and then within those limits, my time was my own to do what I wanted (though they did offer suggestions).

Anyway, the hotel vouchers all indicated that breakfast was included. I pictured what's often known as "continental breakfast": you know, a couple of stale croissants, coffee or tea, maybe a glass of orange juice if you're lucky. So I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the breakfast included was an extensive buffet, with hot food - omelettes, home fries, grilled vegetables, pancakes - as well as an array of fresh fruits, yogurt, cheeses, cereals (both hot and cold), multiple kinds of breads and rolls and even little cakes. I quickly learned to make breakfast the main meal of my day.

My Malmo hotel was even more generous that way. Not only was breakfast included, but also fika (coffee or tea break, with cake), served between 3 and 5PM, and an evening meal, served between 6 and 9PM. Alcoholic beverages were available at an additional charge (I got my first taste of Aquavit!). The one downside to all that was that there were no coffee-making supplies in my room, so I had to go out if I wanted tea or coffee after (or before) hours.


5. OTHER HOTEL AMENITIES

All of the hotels I stayed at were centrally located, enabling me to explore the cities on foot. And I have to say that all the places I went to were very pedestrian friendly.

Although European hotels often don't have swimming pools, I had learned in advance of my trip that the Gothenburg Clarion Post (located right beside the train station) had a rooftop pool and was looking forward to unwinding there with a good view of the city sights. But in the end, it seemed too complicated. There was an extra charge for using the pool and you had to book a 2-hour time slot in advance. I didn't know how long I would be out exploring the sights or what time I'd want to enjoy the pool, so I decided to give it a miss.


So that's my capsule summary of my experiences with hotels in the 2020s. More entries will be forthcoming in my Travelogues of the 2020s series.
Since Ontario entered stage 3 of re-opening, there has predictably been an upswing in COVID-19 cases, this time particularly in the 20 to 40 age group. Is it time to backtrack a bit? Maybe.

Meanwhile in Sweden, authorities took a much more relaxed view of lockdown in the first place. Schools never officially closed. Many workplaces did and some precautions were taken in terms of additional hand washing and physical distancing. For the most part though, it seems families and businesses were fairly free to decide for themselves how and to what extent they should limit or adapt their usual day-to-day activities.

How well has this worked out so far? Reaction has been mixed:

https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/europe/sweden-epidemiologist-anders-tegnell/2020/06/03/063b20e4-a5a0-11ea-b619-3f9133bbb482_story.html

Now, here is a country that you would think would not be excessively motivated by the almighty dollar or krona. I suspect that Swedes would not have much of a problem with deficit financing. They're known for their generous social programs, although their taxes are also high by our standards. But here's what I find interesting: with pretty much everyone enjoying a decent income and a moderately high standard of living, there is no compelling urgency for them to get back to work and real life. And yet, they choose to do so. Why?

One possible answer would be social life. While some people are more sociable than others, humans are generally thought to be social creatures who need at least a modicum of interaction and social contact.

There may be some scientific justification for Sweden's approach too. If you want to build "herd immunity" in the absence of a vaccine or even an effective treatment for the disease, perhaps it makes sense to go about as you mean to continue, as far as is reasonable. That to me would mean that you maintain only loose restrictions on those you would expect to contract only mild cases of the virus, while still protecting those who are older or have compromised immune systems. But perhaps that's easier said than done.

We don't yet have reliable tests for antibodies and for those who do have them, we don't know for how long they protect the person. Nor do we know enough about genetic or other inherent susceptibilities to the virus. Add to that the range and diversity of symptoms and the picture grows murkier still!

Swedish epidemiologist Anders Tegnell seems to have lost some of the courage of his earlier convictions, conceding that the death toll amongst Sweden's older folks has been too high and that if he had known in March what he knows now, he would have advocated more of a middle-ground approach. In other words, somewhere in between hard lockdown and Sweden's looser approach.

A lot of smart people are working really hard on combatting and controlling Covid 19. I hope they succeed. I'm also glad I'm not in the hot-seat right now!

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