Two weeks ago, I attended the conference of the Association of Canadian Archivists, which this year was held at Carleton University. It was intense, stimulating, worthwhile and exhausting. As it was the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Association of Canadian Archivists (hereafter ACA), this was something of a special landmark event. Without going into excruciating detail, I'll comment on what were a few highlights for me.

First, the plenary sessions.

The opening session was a panel of founders and veterans of the ACA, talking about how things were, how they evolved, and what the future of the profession might hold. Something of an eye-opener, really.

Some of the panellists felt that archival studies were not really a respected field of endeavour 50 years ago when the Association was born, that archivists were just regarded as a "weird sort of librarian" as one of them put it. I discussed in a recent post how librarians' work has historically been undervalued. Moreover, in 1978, when I was a newbie government librarian, our LS group (predominantly female) brought a case to the Human Rights Commission contending that our work was of equal value to that of the HR (Historical Research) group (predominantly male), most of whom were archivists employed by the Public Archives (later National Archives) of Canada and were paid considerably more.

We won. Eventually.

Upon reflection, I could understand where they were coming from. When I was at Western earning my librarian credentials, courses like "Archival Theory and Practice" and "Conservation and Preservation" were optional courses that one could take towards an MLS (Masters of Library Science), which nowadays is more likely to be an MLIS, or Masters in Library and Information Studies. It didn't occur to me at the time that there was no parallel educational stream for those who wanted to focus on the archival side of things, with a view to possibly holding a position within a gallery, archives or museum, for example. It probably ought to have occurred to me, as my first permanent job out of library school was in the library of the National Film Archives - so I actually had a foot in both camps! At that time, the National Library and the Public Archives were still two separate entities, each with its own leader, and I was an LS-1 employed in the Public Archives.

So fast forward to the Thursday morning plenary with noted Canadian author Mark Bourrie, who wrote his doctoral dissertation on press censorship. The title of his presentation was "Tales of access, obfuscation, censorship and secrets in the archives." It was definitely interesting - he's generally an engaging speaker - although I didn't feel it quite lived up to the promise of its title.

A comment he made almost in passing was that he didn't feel we were well-served when the National Librarian and the National Archivist positions were consolidated into one single position, as their mandates are quite distinct from each other.

He's absolutely right, of course. But for a history buff, he seemed remarkably uninformed about how this came to pass. During the Q&A, I challenged him, probably more gently than he deserved, and mentioned the English Report on the Role of the National Archives of Canada and the National Library of Canada. You can read it here:

https://www.capalibrarians.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/englishreport1999.pdf

In 1998, John English was asked by then-Heritage Minister Sheila Copps to consult with the relevant communities in both organizations on what we felt our functions and overall role should be. We were asked some detailed questions, our views were solicited and John English listened and made some thoughtful recommendations. Unfortunately, those at the political level didn't listen quite so intently or if they did, they decided we didn't really know what we were talking about and didn't understand their pressures and priorities. Or something.

Amongst the various views we had, we were practically unanimous in our feeling that there should continue to be a National Librarian of Canada (who should be a qualified librarian) and a separate National Archivist of Canada (who should be a qualified archivist). That's not rocket science. It's library science! And archival science!

I'd been really looking forward to the Wednesday opening plenary, which was advertised as follows:

What if we radically imagined a future where archives were for change? There is a growing energy among archivists who want to promote accountability and social justice. However, archival institutions are resistant to change - as they are designed to uphold institutional power.

We were promised a panel that would bring archivists and scholars together in a discussion to imagine and "critically hope for a future where we can truly support the people."

I arrived bright and early Wednesday morning, only to find the panel had been cancelled. I wonder why?

The closing session late on Thursday afternoon was to be a conversation between the Librarian and Archivist of Canada and the former US National Archivist Colleen Shogan, the one who was unceremoniously fired earlier this year. I understand that went ahead. I was too exhausted to stay for it, but I look forward to listening to it later.
Cancel Culture is alive and well. No, I'm not talking about being blocked or unfriended or ghosted on social media. I'm talking about stuff that literally gets cancelled at the last minute. Important stuff. Stuff that demands considerable planning, preparation and fancy logistics, all of which turns out to be for naught.

In the past few weeks, I've endured two such cancellations. One was a cataract operation. The other was an Air Canada flight. Let's take them one by one, shall we?

My cataract surgery was to take place on May 31, at the Riverside campus of the Ottawa Hospital. So I got there as instructed around noon on the 31st, having had no solid food since suppertime on May 30. I was allowed only clear fluids, like black coffee, apple juice and gingerale. The surgery itself was scheduled for 1:30 PM and it was estimated that I'd be allowed to go home again by 3PM, as long as I was escorted by a responsible adult.

So far, so good. I got there and was seen by various nurses and technicians and whoever, who pumped the eye full of various varieties of eye drops at regular intervals. Then back to the waiting area. 1:30 PM came and
went. then 2PM. Then maybe around 2:20, I was finally called into an interior waiting area where I waited prone on a gurney, glasses off, a goofy cap around my hair, a little bag with my meagre accompanying belongings at my feet and a heated blanket over me. And waited, along with a couple of other patients in similar poses.

Finally some kind of supervising person came in and gathered other hospital people around her in a huddle and explained to them that there was no way that all three of us could get our surgery this afternoon. Just one. The woman who won this patient, patience-straining lottery had come in for the day from Deep River along with her escort, so really she was the most logical choice. And as I recall, she was already there when I arrived at noon, so goodness knows what time her surgery had been scheduled for. Supervisor-lady told me: Sorry, I'm afraid your surgery has been cancelled. But we're going to feed you! You can have crackers & cheese or a carrot muffin. I'll even give you both if you like!

I never actually saw my ophthalmologist while there, but he phoned me that evening to apologize for the cancelled surgery, mention when his upcoming operating room hours were, and assure me it would definitely happen this summer.

In the "Talk about coincidences!" department: Just minutes ago, I got a phone call from my ophthalmologist's
office: my new surgery date is August 28; it may even be before then, as I'm also on the cancellations list (for patient-initiated cancellations, that is). We shall see - and more importantly, I shall see!!

Now for the Air Canada flight. This past week, I've been in Winnipeg for the Canadian Health Librarians conference and afterwards in Toronto for the Bony Blithe (crime fiction) Mini-Con. One of my sisters lives In Winnipeg and I hadn't seen her in person in years. Nor had I ever in my life been to the Human Rights Museum there.

So I booked the only direct Air Canada flight I could find from Ottawa to Winnipeg. At time of booking, it was scheduled for 4:10 PM last Monday (June 10). But several weeks later, they informed me that the new departure time would be 6:30 PM. That was less convenient for me but still doable. On June 9, they invited me to "check in" for my flight, which I did, and they e-mailed me a boarding pass. Since I wouldn't be arriving in Winnipeg until the evening, I had decided to splurge on a nice seat and its associated amenities, including a vegetarian meal.

On flight day, I arrived at the Ottawa airport and everything seemed to be going according to plan. I presented my boarding pass, got through security in good time and the departures board indicated the flight was on time and even indicated what gate I'd be departing from, although the flight wasn't due to leave for another couple of hours.

Great! I could grab a coffee, read my book, maybe avail myself of the free airport wi-fi, browse the shops.

Somewhere around 5:15 or 5:30, I thought I'd better check the Departures board again in case the flight was delayed or the departure gate had changed.

Well. The flight had been cancelled altogether!

I was directed to an Air Canada customer service desk between two of the departure gates, where I learned they had booked me on a new flight. One that didn't leave till the next morning. One that was NOT direct, but rather had a connecting flight at Pearson Airport in Toronto. Have I ever mentioned how much I dislike that airport and try to avoid it?

So I told the agent that didn't work for me and she then booked me on a Westjet direct flight leaving at 9:35 that same evening. It was in the Economy cabin, 3 seats across, I was seated on the aisle whereas I prefer a window seat, and I had to pay for my own food. Still, it was better than waiting till the next day. I'm now working on getting some sort of partial refund from Air Canada.

So I got to my librarians' conference, I got to the Human Rights museum with my sister, brother-in-law and niece, and then I flew from Winnipeg to Toronto for the Bony Blithe event. The Bony Blithe event, by the way, was supposed to happen in 2020. Then in 2021, then in 2022, and so on. But in 2024, it did happen! I had a great time and it was worth the wait.

Overall, I much prefer train travel to plane travel. I took a very efficient train from Pearson Airport to Union Station, using my Presto card. I took a VIA Rail train from Toronto back to Ottawa. It was late, of course, but the food and wine and service were all great. And kudos to VIA: they actually announced right off the bat that in light of the late arrival, all passengers would be entitled to a 50% off voucher for VIA rail travel that we could redeem any time in the next 12 months. I'm already planning my next trip!
(A continuation of the saga I began on August 9)

So even with my refund in hand (or at least recorded in my online bank accounts), it was with some trepidation that I set about making travel arrangements for my trip to Ireland. I'd heard all about cancelled and seriously delayed flights, lost and delayed baggage, ArriveCan woes, random COVID testing and intrusive follow-ups even for fully vaccinated travellers, airlines refusing to compensate passengers in and appropriate and legally prescribed ways... need I go on?

In shopping for an airline, I considered both Air Canada and Westjet. Air Canada looked to be far more expensive, although the cost varied considerably according to how much flexibility they offered if you had to cancel or change your travel arrangements. Westjet offered premium economy seats at what I considered reasonable rates, and they looked to be a big step above regular economy class for the comfort, services and amenities provided.

Another consideration was the route taken and the airports I would have to go through. I've never been a fan of Toronto's Pearson Airport at the best of times and after hearing that it ranked worst in the world for canceled and delayed flights, that cemented my determination not to risk a layover there. Ideally I would have found a direct Ottawa-Dublin flight that suited my schedule (better for the environment too), but it was not to be. Travelling to Toronto meant travelling west in order to travel east, which makes little sense to me. And Toronto was also one of the sites where returning passengers might be subjected to random COVID testing in addition to the numerous other indignities we keep hearing about!

So I booked my flights to go through Halifax instead. Not only would I be flying continuously east (the irony of doing so on an airline named Westjet did not escape me) but by losing one of my hours immediately, prior to the overnight flight to Dublin, I figured it might be easier to adjust to the rest of the time difference. Plus, I could arrive earlier in the morning, go directly the the convention centre to check into the conference, attend the opening ceremonies featuring former (and first woman) president Mary Robinson, then check into my hotel for a nap, as there weren't any conference sessions later in the day I was that interested in.

That was the plan, anyway. In the end, the Ottawa to Halifax flight got cancelled - AFTER I had supposedly "checked in" for my flight the night before, AND printed boarding passes indicating the gates I'd be boarding at in Ottawa and Halifax and the times boarding was scheduled to begin! But at least it happened while I was still at home, not while I was sitting in a crowded, uncomfortable airport waiting area. And Westjet did offer me an alternative, which I accepted as the lesser of two evils.

The substitute offer had me on a flight at 6:45 PM instead of 6PM, bound for (sigh) Pearson Airport and a correspondingly later flight from Toronto to Dublin, which then took off about 40 minutes behind schedule. On the other hand, I was still assigned a comparable seat in Premium Economy and other than the comparatively minor delays, there were no problems at the airport. Security was quite fast and efficient; they don't even make you take your shoes off anymore to go through the scanner. A big advantage for me of Canadian airports and Canadian-based airlines is that masks are still required throughout the journey, except for meals and identification purposes at the gate.

I've become a big fan of Westjet and their premium economy service too. The Westjet in-flight people seemed to be genuinely enjoying themselves and keen to make the experience pleasant for their passengers. For the meals, a flight attendant whipped out a little white tablecloth to spread over each tray-table. Wine was included. I hadn't specifically ordered a vegetarian meal but on all flights there seemed to be a vegetarian (though likely not vegan) option. On the flight from Toronto to Dublin that was potato gnocchi and on the flight home (Dublin to Halifax) it was a vegetarian lasagna. There were plenty of take-away snacks too, like granola bars, nuts, pretzels, mints and chocolates. Pillows and blankets were provided as well as little care packages with sleep masks, lip balm, ear plugs and socks inside.

The seats that I booked entitled me to two pieces of checked luggage, one carry-on bag (to go in an overhead bin) and one smaller personal item (such as a handbag or small knapsack) to go under the seat.

After all I'd heard about baggage handler strikes, misplaced bags and the like, it seemed safer to travel to Dublin with everything I needed in the cabin. But I was also pretty sure I'd want to buy a few things while I was over there. So inside my carry-on bag I packed a scrunchable backpack and a sort of day-bag (a tote-bag with rubberized lining, therefore waterproof) I'd need while in and around Dublin. The backpack would become my carry-on for the flights back to Canada and I would check my larger (and by then heavier) rolling carry-on suitcase. I figured it didn't matter quite so much if my bag got lost or misplaced on the way home.

That arrangement worked pretty well, although I did wish I'd packed a few extra plastic bags. Single-use plastics seem to have been completely eliminated in Ireland and good on them! It's just that paper bags are not always practical - they take up more room in the luggage and they disintegrate in the rain. One partial solution I adopted was to buy cloth bags from some of the landmarks I visited - the James Joyce Centre, the Rock & Roll Museum, the Winding Stair Bookshop - and they were useful for separating clean clothes from dirty ones and for cushioning a few of the more fragile items I wanted to pack for the trip home. And the barman at the Ha'penny Bridge Inn was good enough to give me a reusable plastic (or at least plastic-like) carrier bag from Tesco when I arrived there with a rapidly disintegrating paper shopping bag.

I wrote earlier about my frustrations with Canada's own ArriveCan website. Somewhere in Dublin, but no sooner than 72 hours before my expected arrival back in Canada, I had to be in possession of my ArriveCan receipt: probably a printed one, as I was not using a smartphone during my trip. So where would I print my receipt? The conference was already over by that time and as for the hotel, there didn't seem to be at the kind of business centre that I had hoped for. I had perfectly fine Internet service via my laptop, but no access to a printer. Maybe a public library? But the problem was, there wasn't any obvious public library
in the areas I wanted to visit and I didn't know what their hours were or what their printing facilities were like. But something I HAD seen around town was Internet cafés.

On the Friday evening (July 29), just after I returned from a day trip to Galway, I entered my expected return flight details into ArriveCan. I couldn't believe how smoothly it went! I soon had the requisite ArriveCan receipt in my e-mail box and now it only remained to find somewhere to print it off. I did an online search for Internet cafés in the Dublin area and jotted down a few possibilities to explore the next day.

So, about Internet cafes. They do have Internet and printing services but they don't really have café. In fact, the one I went to was combined with a tanning salon. The good news is that it was inexpensive and was open long hours. The bad news is that even though I used the few privacy tricks I knew about and was assured I was "going incognito", I still got a couple of spam messages the next day, telling me (erroneously, thank goodness) that my e-mail had been locked and several e-mail messages had been withheld. But other than printing off my ArriveCan receipt, I wasn't using the Internet café for anything confidential or anything I can think of that would be much use to hackers and crackers.

The flights back to Ottawa were fine. I went through Halifax as I had wanted to. Things were efficient at Dublin airport and since I was flying on a Canadian-based airline, they made sure I had my ArriveCan receipt right from the get-go. Masks were not required at Dublin airport (and most passengers weren't wearing them) but things weren't so ridiculously congested as to preclude social distancing. But they WERE required on board the plane. I checked one bag at Dublin airport, as planned, and it was checked right through to Ottawa. At Halifax airport (my point of arrival back in Canada), Westjet staff were on hand to guide us through customs procedures, which were mostly about punching the relevant buttons on a computer terminal. I didn't have to go through security a second time before my flight from Halifax to Ottawa.

So that concludes my piece on the logistics of travel during the 7th wave of COVID-19. In a future blog post, I'll write more about my experiences in Ireland.
I recently spent some time in Ireland, attending the World Library and Information Congress (WLIC) and seeing a few of the sights. Was it worthwhile? Unquestionably. The conference was a big deal in Dublin, with signs all over town welcoming the delegates. For the most part, we were lucky with the weather, I went to some great conference sessions and library visits, met some interesting people, did some sightseeing. More on all that in a forthcoming blog post.

That said, there are definitely some challenges involved in travelling anywhere, but especially internationally, during a pandemic.

WLIC is the annual conference of the International Federation of Library Associations (IFLA) and is held in a different city every year. Up to this year, I'd been to two WLICs: one in Quebec City in 2008 and one in Lyon, France, in 2014. This year's Dublin WLIC was originally supposed to take place in 2020 but when planning was already well underway, registrations accepted, flights and hotels booked... COVID intervened and proved to be rather more than the temporary snag that some of the organizers had initially expected. Of course, the conference was cancelled. But in short order, conference organizers at IFLA and their members in Dublin were actively planning for WLIC2022.

The official airline for WLIC Dublin was Aer Lingus. It's not an airline I would use again. Let me explain.

I booked a flight back in 2020, at a preferential conference rate. When air travel came to a screeching halt with COVID, the airline offered me a voucher for the full amount I'd paid, to be valid for 5 years from the date services resumed. There was at least a strong hint that if I agreed to a voucher as opposed to holding out for a cash refund, it would be a very quick, easy process and I would have my voucher in hand within a couple of weeks or months. I knew that I wouldn't be travelling for a while but I also knew I still wanted to go to Dublin for the 2022 conference. All in all, it seemed like a reasonable offer. So I accepted it.

Then I waited. The Aer Lingus site kept boasting during 2020 that 50%, then 75%, then 95% of vouchers had been issue. So where was mine? I followed up several times by e-mail and was met by a wall of silence.

The months went by. 2021 came and went. I guess I didn't seriously panic until early bird registration for the 2022 conference opened and there was still no sign of my voucher. I phoned the toll-free number on their site and waited endlessly on hold. I completed forms on the Aer Lingus site. I did eventually get an e-mailed reply and it was all pretty unbelievable.

Aer Lingus Agent claimed they could only issue vouchers in Euros, UK pounds or US dollars. This directly contradicted information on the Aer Lingus site indicating that all vouchers would be issued in the same currency in which the original booking was made. I briefly browsed the flight schedules to see if I could figure out how to book a return flight from a Canadian destination and pay (or even just see the prices) in anything other than Canadian dollars. I replied to Aer Lingus Agent's e-mail explaining my dilemma but any hopes of a prompt reply were soon dashed.

So what to do? Well, Aer Lingus was supposed to be THE official conference airline, right? And I was already registered for the conference. So I sent off a plaintive e-mail to the conference organizers, asking: Do you have a contact person at Aer Lingus who could help me with my voucher/booking problems?

And honestly, I cannot praise those folks highly enough! Almost instantaneously (even allowing for the 5-hour time difference between Ottawa and Dublin), they gave me contact details for an Aer Lingus person who could help. At first, she suggested maybe I could identify the specific flights I wanted and she would book them on my behalf. This I did, but over the course of the day, I think she decided that her suggestion was not really that practical after all. She said she would arrange for a refund to my credit card of the full amount I had paid (back in 2020) and it would be processed within 3 to 5 business days.

Sure enough, I saw the refund in my online banking 3 days later. Wow.

I must admit, however, that my gratitude did not extend to using the money to re-book with Aer Lingus. Instead, I looked at flights on the two major Canadian airlines I'm familiar with, Air Canada and Westjet.

In my next instalment, I'll let you know what happened next.
I'm musing wistfully about some of the conventions I've gone to in the past - Bloody Words, Bloody Scotland, Iceland Noir, Left Coast Crime, Crimefest, Maplecon, CanCon and Bouchercon... I've never been to a ConCept, Ad Astra, AndOrCon, Comicon or WorldCon, although I'm sure they could be a lot of fun too. Usually they take place in the spring, summer or fall but in 2020, they haven't happened at all.

So here's a thought. When we're finally able to hold those larger events once again, why don't we hold a Pandemicon? We could have panels discussing all that marvellous post-apocalyptic literature we read while we were holed up in self isolation practising imaginative distancing. We could talk about how prescient it was or how wildly unrealistic. We could have our True Science and Pseudoscience and "What were we thinking?" features as well. Film screenings. Masquerade balls with plenty of masks and face-shields and PPE. People dressed as space aliens and paramedics and grocery store workers and maybe as Stan or Cassie the sourdough starter? Someone wearing a version of the toilet paper dress from that commercial? Contests too. Pandemic-era games. Live entertainment - maybe a performance by I Furiosi in their full medical regalia? Picnics and banquets in courtyards and on terraces and patios.

The possibilities are endless. And wouldn't it be a great way to revive the tourist industry?
It has been pointed out by a number of international organizations that accurate documentation becomes MORE important during a crisis, not less.

This may relate to political and legal actions - we still need to know where we stand with regard to our governments and our laws, we still have basic rights and we still should be confident as citizens of a democratic society that our rights and freedoms are being upheld. In that regard, I say kudos to Trudeau fils for NOT invoking the federal Emergencies Act. He did attempt to push through some rather draconian budget provisions which would have severely restrained parliamentary oversight, but
when that happened, the opposition parties worked as opposition parties are supposed to, and those provisions were modified. With a few notable exceptions, I've been reasonably satisfied with how the politicians in Canada are working together.

On the other hand, we do still have a problematic divide in this country between the information-rich and the information-poor. Some twenty to twenty-five years since home internet became fairly commonplace, there are still a lot of communication gaps and breakdowns, particularly now that you can't go to a library or internet café or visit a friend to use e-mail or other internet. It's partly an urban/rural thing and partly a matter of income distribution and other factors too.

There are some noisy Bell trucks in our neighbourhood right now installing fibre or cable or whatever. I'm told that should give us faster and more reliable internet service although the nitty gritty techie details of it elude me!

But aside from the difficulties in accessing cold hard facts and information, there is a certain level of CULTURAL poverty that sets in during a lockdown. You can't physically visit museums or art galleries or go to concerts or conferences or gastronomic events or craft fairs even in your OWN home town, let alone travelling and seeing the world! Yes, we're very fortunate to have the option of virtual visits to all these landmarks. And to the extent that we don't, it does certainly highlight the importance of further expanding electronic documentation of our heritage and culture. People increasingly see the need for it, whereas previously they might have considered it an appalling waste of money and other scarce resources. Here are a couple of links I found interesting:

https://librarianship.ca/news/statement-duty-to-document/

https://en.unesco.org/news/turning-threat-covid-19-opportunity-greater-support-documentary-heritage

It's been said that when a new technology comes along, it doesn't necessarily supplant previous ones. For example, we still listen to the radio even though we also have TV and video and Netflix. There's still a market for vinyl records even though we have CDs and MP3s and all manners of streaming. Of course, formats do become obsolete too - think 8-tracks and diskettes amongst others.

So yes, for now it's a bonus to be able to let our thumbs do the walking. But I have to say, I'm still looking forward to getting back to some of the OLD normal!
On Thursday, June 6, I flew out to St. John's to attend the annual conference of the Atlantic Provinces Library Association. It was held on the Signal Hill campus of Memorial University and I stayed nearby at the Sheraton (on Cavendish Square, just on the edge of downtown). This was my first visit to Newfoundland and it leaves me with just two Canadian provinces I have yet to visit - New Brunswick and Saskatchewan. Here are some of the highlights (and a couple of lowlights) of my trip.

First, some overall impressions. The residents were VERY friendly and helpful. If I looked slightly lost at any point, there was always someone there offering to orient me and tell me how best to get to where I wanted to go. But when I wanted to just explore and poke about a bit on my own, that was fine with them too. They seemed to have a good sense of just how much personal space I needed - something that seems incredibly rare in this day and age. The downtown area had lots of great places selling local products and art and crafts - good authentic stuff for the most part too, not trashy or tacky-touristy. I was a little worried about how vegetarian-friendly their cuisine would be, given how important fish and seafood are to their local economy. But that concern proved groundless - in fact, I ate at two superb restaurants along Duckworth Street (The Peaceful Loft Vegan Cafe; and Seto, another Asian-oriented restaurant) and enjoyed a very nice black bean burger at the hotel's restaurant. The Peaceful Loft was rated #1 of around 300 St. John's restaurants on Tripadvisor (though I didn't know that at the time):

https://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restaurant_Review-g154964-d7356906-Reviews-Peaceful_Loft-St_John_s_Newfoundland_Newfoundland_and_Labrador.html

and Seto was also reviewed favourably there:

https://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restaurant_Review-g154964-d10076471-Reviews-Seto_Kitchen_Bar-St_John_s_Newfoundland_Newfoundland_and_Labrador.html

At Peaceful Loft, they were playing Simon & Garfunkel while I was there and I overheard the proprietor telling two other diners that he was 64 years old, had been an engineer in (I think) Korea (don't know if that was North or South) but cooking was his passion. And the food was indeed good - he served me soup and tea as soon as I arrived and I ordered the "peaceful rolls" from the menu.

At Seto, I was the only diner there at first, which suited me nicely as I had gone there to escape some of the Friday evening rowdiness of the George Street bar district. I sat by the window and watched the world go by. My server (who may also have been the cook) asked me straightaway whether I had any allergies. I ordered the vegetable fried rice and treated myself to their one dessert which that day was a sort of blueberry fritter with a small scoop of ice cream.

The conference itself was quite small, although aside from the keynote presentations there was some choice of sessions to attend. I went to sessions on diversity, "art hives" in libraries, and dealing with book donations. The closing keynote was on ensuring authentic indigenous content (I missed the opening keynote as I didn't arrive until Thursday afternoon). The "lightning talks" on Saturday morning were excellent, particularly the one on the Gander "flybrary", a kind of little free library located at Gander airport. The inspiration for it came with the events of September 11, 2001, when large numbers of international travellers found themselves stranded in Gander (a fairly small centre, population ca. 10,000) as a result of all the flights that were grounded. The conference also featured a small exhibits area, where Ex Libris had a table.

When the conference ended at midday Saturday, I decided that since I was already half-way up Signal Hill, I might as well climb the rest of the way up there. I made it as far as the uppermost "Ladies' Lookout" and really wanted to climb up higher to see if there were any "gentlemen's lookouts" or perhaps "hiker-men's lookouts"? But once I saw a plaque commemorating the Battle of Signal Hill and noticed that the weather seemed to be turning nastier and foggier, I decided it was time to head downwards again. I went from the Ladies' Lookout Trail to the Burma Trail, which snaked downwards into Quidi Vidi Village. By this time I was tired and hungry and I could see a bus-stop. A passing walker informed me that there was a bus due quite soon, although it was usually a bit late. That took me right to the edge of Cavendish Square, where I could walk across a park to my hotel.

Since I had all of Sunday "at leisure" (as they say in the tourist brochures) I decided to book myself on an O'Brien's boat cruise out to Witless Bay where there are many different species of local birds. Some of the brochures mentioned a "bird sanctuary" out there (though I don't think it was much of a sanctuary for one unfortunate puffin we saw being unceremoniously scooped up and devoured by a gull!) We saw several icebergs and a couple of people told me they had actually spotted a whale - or part of one, anyway. I'd call it a fish story except for the fact that whales aren't fish!

There was a bar on board where I sampled an Iceberg Beer and several of us got ourselves "screeched in" and left the boat in yellow Sou'westers emblazoned with the O'Brien's logo, proudly clutching our certificates.

I had paid for the shuttle to drop me back at the hotel afterwards, but the driver was also willing to drop us off at alternate locations. I decided that "The Rooms", a kind of museum to end all museums, was at the top of my must-see list and asked to be let off there. It was about 2:30 PM and I spent the rest of my afternoon there until it closed at 5:00 - in fact, I could easily have spent a day or two there if I'd had time.

So those were the highlights; now for the lowlights. First off, the weather. It rained every day I was there. Thursday and Friday were almost complete washouts; Saturday and Sunday were mixed - at least there was some good weather Saturday afternoon for climbing and exploring around Signal Hill. There was a power failure at my hotel Thursday evening and my TV and remote didn't work properly all the time I was there. But at least the hotel staff were pleasant and tried to be helpful - kudos to the bellhop who managed to tune my TV to Bravo so I could watch the season opener of Handmaid's Tale. "That's Margaret Atwood, right?" he said to me. He then mentioned that he'd met her once and that she had stayed at the hotel a few times. He said he had also met Farley Mowat.

There WERE some hotel amenities I did appreciate - the fridge in my room and the pool, sauna and hot-tub on the lower lobby level which I visited once.

Another lowlight occurred on the plane trip. I had decided I didn't want to deal with checked baggage and all it entails in terms of delays at the airport, extra charges and the possibility of it being lost or damaged. So that meant travelling fairly light. For reading matter on the flight to St. John's, I had settled on a slim Ngaio Marsh paperback, Singing in the Shrouds, that fit quite nicely in my purse. Halfway through the flight, somewhere in chapter 5, I turned a page... and realized that the book was mis-bound, with one section appearing twice over and some 30 pages missing altogether! Now that has happened to me before, though never when I've been suspended in mid-air, so I suppose I should have examined the thing before choosing it as my travelling companion. Aaaaarghh!! I ended up leaving it in St. John's (it can't be returned to the store because I got it second-hand to begin with, and a long time ago at that) and on the way home, I read a book called Corner Boys, a memoir by someone who grew up in St. Johns in the 1950s and 60s. But I got my happy ending - yesterday at the Friends of the Experimental Farm annual booksale, I managed to find a copy of the same Ngaio Marsh book, same cover, same edition - except that this one had all its pages.

So all in all, it was a good trip. I didn't see everything I would have liked to see nor did I get beyond the St. John's area, but I made the most of the time I did have.

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