A is for AMPELMANN

Ampelmann is the little walk / don't walk character you see on pedestrian crosswalks. He was sired in 1961 by East Berlin traffic psychologist Karl Peglau (1927-2009). Read all about it at www.ampelmann.de


B is for BEBELPLATZ

site of a mass book burning on May 10, 1933. On a lighter note, it's also for BUDDY BEARS, those colourful fibreglass bears you can find all over Bärlin.


C is for CHECKPOINT CHARLIE

I mean, you just can't go to Berlin without visiting Checkpoint Charlie and its associated museum and gift shop. The checkpoint names were based on the NATO alphabet, still in use by ham radio enthusiasts and other groups. I didn't visit any other checkpoints and don't know if any others are still operating as tourist sites.


D is for DUSSMANN KULTURKAUFHAUS

What an amazing place! I discovered it purely by happenstance, wandering jetlaggedlich along Friedrichstrasse on my first afternoon in Berlin. I spent a couple of hours browsing there. Multiple floors of books, in multiple languages but mainly German and English. And in the basement: MUSIC! CDs, vinyl, sheet music, musical instruments. Every musical genre you can think of is covered there. Naturally they also have an online shop: www.kulturkaufhaus.de


E is for ENTSCHULDIGUNG and also for EINSTÜRZENDE NEUBAUTEN

"Entschuldigung" is a very useful word to know in Berlin and other cities and countries where German is spoken. Einstürzende Neubauten is the name of an experimental rock group based in Berlin. I bought their most recent CD at the aforementioned Dussmann Kulturkaufhaus. See www.neubauten.org


F is for FUSS and FAHRRAD

As I noted in a previous post, Berlin is friendly to numerous forms of transport, including foot and bicycle. If you're reasonably able-bodied, exploring on foot is the best way to experience the character of a city.


G is for GENDARMENMARKT,

the area of town where my hotel was situated. It's very central, about halfway between the Stadtmitte and Unter den Linden U-Bahn stations.


H is for HAUPTBAHNHOF,

the start and endpoint of so many great Berlin adventures!


I is for ISHERWOOD

Christopher Isherwood (1904-1986) lived in Berlin from 1929 to 1933. He wrote, among other works, The Berlin Stories, which is actually two semi-autobiographical novels: Mr. Norris Changes Trains; and Goodbye to Berlin. The books inspired the movies and stage productions of I Am A Camera, and Cabaret.


J is for JÜDISCHES MUSEUM and also for JUGEND

Berlin has the feel of a youthful city. In its present unwalled format, it's only a little over 30 years old, which I would certainly consider young for a city. At the same time, there's a lot of history here!


K is for KURFÜRSTENSTRASSE and KURFüRSTENDAMM, better known as the KU'DAMM

The Mink Mile of Berlin, with loads of shops for loaded shoppers, like Karl Lagerfeld and even Canada Goose!


L is for LITERATURHAUS and also for LEIPZIG

Leipzig isn't Berlin, but it's an easy day-trip away, via the network of ICE trains.


M is for MUSEUM

As I noted in my last post, there's a museum for almost everything. Here are the ones I went to:

Film- und Fernsehmuseum (which also has a Dussmann branch on its ground floor)
Musical Instruments Museum
Schwules Museum (all things LGBTQ+)
Museum at Checkpoint Charlie

and in Leipzig:

Bach Museum and Archive (and garden)
Zeitgeschichtliches Forum (Forum of Contemporary History)

The above are just the ones that I actually went into and explored at length. There were numerous others that I walked past and would have loved to visit if time had permitted and if their open-hours had coincided with my awake-hours.


N is for NOLLENDORFPLATZ,

where we began the Christopher Isherwood walking tour. If you go, I recommend going on a sunny Saturday in spring or summer, when the outdoor markets and restaurant patios are in full swing.


O is for OST

Ost ist Ost und West ist West, but now the twain have met.


P is for POTSDAMERPLATZ,

a real mecca for museums and culture and just across from the Mall of Berlin, a mecca for shoppers.


Q is for QUEER and also for QUELLE

Berlin is very queer-friendly. I don't know if Quelle is still going, but they were a big department store which used to have a wonderful multi-glossy-paged catalogue (much better than the Sears or Eatons catalogues), which I subscribed to and ordered stuff from in the 1970s and 80s. It always took a month or two to get the stuff I ordered but thanks to Canada Post and all the post offices and transport links in between, it always arrived!


R is for ROTES RATHAUS,

site of city hall and a wonderful network of cobblestoned passageways and interesting boutiques in the Nikolaiviertel, not far from Alexanderplatz. Read all about it here:

https://www.the-berliner.com/berlin/history-nikolaiviertel-east-berlin-restoration-ww2-germany/


S is for SCHOKOLADE

Did I mention that Berliners take their chocolate very seriously?


T is for TIERGARTEN and TOR and TURM and TASCHENPARADIES

Taschenparadies is the luggage shop in the Mall of Berlin where I bought a TRUEG backpack for my trip home. See taschenparadies.de


U is for U-BAHN


V is for VisitBerlin.de

Don't leave home without first visiting VisitBerlin.de
Or without your VISA card and your visa if you need one.


W is for WALK, WALL and WELCOME CARD

What can I say? I definitely found the Welcome Card worthwhile. For details, see the aforementioned
VisitBerlin.de


X is for XYLOPHONE

and all the other marvellous musical instruments I met in the Musical Instruments museum. The instruments are works of art in and of themselves, before you even consider the music they can make in the hands of those who can play them!


Y is for: YOU KNOW WHAT, MAYBE WE SHOULD SKIP THIS ONE?

Or at least make a see-reference to J. Do German Scrabble games even have any Y-tiles? If so, they ought to be 10-pointers for sure! On the other hand, a German could get lots of points with the J- and Z-tiles, if playing German scrabble with an English scrabble game!


Z is for ZEITUNG and ZOO and ZUG

I enjoyed all three during my stay.
So I recently got back from an enjoyable but exhausting week-long trip to Berlin.

Until just now, the last time I was in Germany - West Germany, that is - was 1972. I had an international student card. I spent June and July studying German at the Goethe Institut in Schwäbisch Hall, a short train ride from Stuttgart. I was billeted with a family who owned and operated a pub and restaurant. I shared a room there with another Goethe Institut student who was from Finland.

This time, I was able to take advantage of pensioners' rates on my hotel room and some local attractions. I bought a 6-day Welcome Card, entitling me to unlimited transportation on the U-Bahn, the S-Bahn and Berlin's whole vast public transit network, as well as significant discounts (usually 25%, sometimes more) on admission to various points of interest, like museums. I swear, they have a museum for almost everything!

General impressions? Berlin, at least the central area where I spent nearly all my time, is very bicycle-friendly and pedestrian-friendly, although there as here, there's lots of construction underway. The weather was glorious - it didn't rain once! There were plenty of outdoor patios. As far as what I consumed on those patios, I'd have to say I didn't have a lot of traditional German food (or at least, what I think of as such), though I did drink German beer. I ate Italian (lots of gelato places too), I ate Vietnamese, I ate Mexican. At the Mexican place, I actually drank a tequila sunrise - something I no longer see on the menus of Mexican restaurants over here, though it was a staple of my undergraduate student days. I will say that the Germans take their chocolate very seriously! My hotel was just a couple of blocks from Rausch chocolates (both an extensive store and a restaurant with patio) and everything I got from there was excellent, including their dark chocolate liqueur!

Many Berlin-folk seem to be smokers, something which surprised me a little, as so much of Europe (if not the world) is going smoke-free. They also don't seem to be morning people - many of the major attractions didn't open till noon or even 2PM. It was very easy to find postcards but very difficult to find places to buy stamps for them or to mail them.

I signed up for two guided walks, one in English and the other in German. The English one was on Christopher Isherwood, and led by Brendan Nash, who has himself written several books. I enjoyed that walk very much. The meeting point was the U-Bahn station at Nollendorfplatz, Saturday morning at 11AM. And afterwards, I was able to browse the stalls of the Wintermarkt where I bought bread, cheese, a few second-hand books and a very nice handmade jacket. I had a latish lunch on the patio at Vamos, which is where I enjoyed the aforementioned tequila sunrise. The market people packed up at 4PM and I moved on too - to the zoo, where I managed to see the pandas, the big cats and a few other random animals before closing time.

The next day, I went on the Courage walk, organized by the Literaturhaus. Courage was a feminist newspaper of the 1970s, which only lasted a couple of years although a subsequent paper, Emma, is apparently still going strong to this day. We did get to leaf through a copy of Courage and that was very interesting. Overall, though, I found the walk a bit disappointing. I felt the guide cast his net too wide and we spent a large part of the time just looking at the Gedenktafeln for people along Fasanenstrasse - people who seemed to be really only tangentially relevant to the whole feminist press ventures that were what interested me.

I'll talk more about my Berlin stay (and a side trip to Leipzig) in my next post, but I think this is enough for one day.

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